A time capsule of British precision manufacturing. ZU VERKAUFEN! For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. I generally use a small blade type screwdriver as a wedge behind the lock ring. Bring the spindle back to the anvil using the thimble. Moore & Wright externes Mikrometer 3"" - 4 - picclick.de 971 at the best online prices at eBay! This is tough to deal with, as the only remedy (short of replacing parts) is to spring the segments back out. In this case, the spindle was free. This cleaning and adjustment will save you from a lot of headaches in calibration! Older Starrett micrometers, and some other makes as well, use a style of spindle lock that isn't really seen anymore. Gravity and capillary action did the work. I believe Moore and Wright are just a name now - they still maintain an office in the UK, but everything is either bought in or made for them. The adjuster ring was put back on- it has a taper in the threads, so goes on the right way much more readily than the other- and adjusted a fraction of a turn at a time until there was no detectable play in the spindle. Now you can unscrew the part. Time and hand work pretty much get it free. Next on the slippery slope to precision measurement is often a micrometer. To understand the adjustment procedure, we'll look at how the unit is constructed. On an older unit, these may be covered with crud or rust. This can be done, but it takes care to do it uniformly and without raising any burrs. On the other hand, I had good reason to think it can be repaired, though a few things make it a definite borderline case. 925MF Metric -13mm/.01mm, New Old Stock. You do not want to disturb the setting. The desired outside diameter is slightly smaller than the serrated section outside diameter. Abrasives should not be used here. Moore and Wright Micrometer Stand 279 Series MW279-01A. You can get a good fit in the hole and provided it's not. Lets take a look at how this micrometer is adjusted, and then at a Scherr-Tumico 1-2" micrometer. It gets in the joint and makes adjustment a challenge. If the thimble is straight and concentric, no rubbing is going on, and lines close to zero when the spindle is brought in to the anvil, then it is backed off and the crew given a final tightening. Number of adjustment notches: 1: Reading: 100/200 mm: Admissible error: 0,003 mm: Spindle diameter: 6,8 mm: Graduation: 0,001 mm: Show UNSPSC/ECL@SS. They are small slot type on the older examples I have serviced. *Prices are pre-tax. The inside of the thimble and the outside of the cylinder in the spindle need to be clean and smooth, and ANY crud inside the thimble needs to be removed. Abrasive paper can be used, but it is awkward to get in, and getting rid of the residue can be difficult. ANY burr raised on the thread, inside or the adjustment threads, will ruin your day. Initially the M&W micrometers were made to the Aureole designs. Cleaning of the anvil was done at this time. The spindle turns freely and has no significant play, but it won't quite zero. Little force should be needed. It probably won't line up right, but get it close. 17200. Don't bring the measuring faces together yet, because before we can put on the thimble and zero the tool, we must set the barrel.
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